Luxury and controversy are not opposites. Especially in the world of art and design, they are even closely intertwined. It is precisely in the tension between tradition and innovation, aesthetics and friction, that the power of luxury emerges. Just think of Marcel Duchamp, who provoked the art world with a urinal, and thus sparked a new movement. In fashion we look to figures like Demna, recruited by Gucci because of his subversive style, and in the textile world too we see that luxury often emerges where norms are challenged.
Luxury as provocation
Luxury is not only the domain of the classic, polished aesthetic. It increasingly seeks the boundaries of the unexpected. In fashion, examples abound. High Snobiety, a magazine that seeks the boundary between high-end fashion and streetwear, was once destined for a niche, but is today essential in the luxury market. Think of Edra, the Italian furniture brand that radically breaks conventions around upholstery. Their famous ‘Boa Sofa‘ – an organic, gnarled lying object of meter-long velvet snake structures- challenges the idea of what a piece of seating furniture is. The textile upholstery here is not subordinate, but defines the object. And with their A’mare Sedia outdoor collection, Edra challenged market trends by treating polycarbonate as a precious material through handcrafted techniques, while competitors moved away from synthetics.
This tension is not new. Le Corbusier already used cowhide as upholstery in his iconic LC1 armchair in 1928. At the time it was a provocative choice: raw, almost animal materiality in a minimalist modernist design. The interplay of natural and industrial, of comfortable and raw, makes the design fascinating to this day.
Even for contemporary luxury fabrics, playing with material remains a source of both controversy and attraction. Take, for example, the exclusive use of wild silk, which is precious due to its scarcity and the complexity of processing. It has become the ultimate status symbol in high-end textiles.
And also closer to home, in Europe, you see how forgotten materials, such as hemp, form the basis for the manufacture of luxury textiles. Hemp was long banned because of its bad reputation, but is raising its head again.
The tension field between high-tech and low-tech
In times when high-tech and high-performance textiles are in full development, a movement emerges that radically opposes technological perfection. Sofacover, Deltracon, Libeco, B&T Textilia, Verilin and De Witte Lietaer, are examples of Belgian weaving mills, consciously choosing the appearance of hand-woven craftsmanship. Sofacover spinns its own yarns, directly from the hackled band and creates unique fabrics that are coveted in the luxury market precisely because of their small imperfections and tactile character. Libeco and De Witte Lietaer even re-introduce hemp to create more tension between soft and rough.
The wall tapestry is also experiencing a remarkable revival. Where it was once dismissed as old-fashioned, the East Flemish weaving mill B&T Textilia breathed new life into this artisanal tradition. Especially a number of niche publishers included the Verdure style in their collections. The lush, green motifs of leaves, plants and flowers prove particularly successful, partly thanks to their historical association with the luxury of the 15th to 17th centuries. Leading fashion houses also reach back to medieval scenes with a contemporary twist for their bag and accessory collections.
Horsehair: luxury between tradition and innovation
Another example where material choice creates subtle controversy: horsehair. This noble fiber — glossy, strong, extremely durable — has been used for centuries for upholstering luxury furniture. Belgian weaving mills such as Deltracon (and the former Van Maele Weavers) elevated this technique to a contemporary level. In a world where synthetic and mass production dominate, the choice for horsehair raises questions: is it an ode to pure craftsmanship, or a nostalgic provocation in an era of sustainability? We will never know the answer, because despite the luxury market’s willingness to pay higher prices, economic reality forces the suppliers of these special materials to make other – more lucrative – choices.
Luxury feeds on controversy
What all these examples have in common: they challenge our expectations. Luxury is not only the most beautiful marble, the softest silk or the most expensive wool. Luxury is meaning: the story, the tension, the vision behind the product. It’s about textile that touches you not only through its beauty, but through the conversation it evokes. Gucci’s choice of Demna as artistic director is not foreign to this. Demna Gvasalia paved his way to luxury precisely by taking that luxury to task. As a sworn outsider, migrant, subversive and controversial, he sent his models onto the catwalk wearing a DHL T-shirt. Thanks to that outsider image, he became one of the most influential fashion designers of the 21st century and all eyes ar now on Sept. 23, on his first Gucci show. What few people know is that he graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 2006.
In a world where luxury is often associated with comfort and predictability, brands, designers and producers remain relevant by seeking out precisely that discomfort. By allowing the unexpected. Through a material choice that chafes – sometimes literally. By reloading craft with contemporary relevance. Luxury does not emerge despite controversy, but thanks to controversy.
